Hat-sweat and method of attachment.



R. BECKER. HAT SWEAT AND METHOD OF ATTACHMENT.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 14. I918.

Patented 00$. 8,1918.

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RUDOLPH BECKER, or RQSELLE min NEW JERSEY, nssre vor. TQ rrrnsmenn MAN F FACTUBING COMPANY, A conror'mcrron or'ivnw 'JnRsnY.

HAT-SWEAT AND METHOD OF ATTACHMENT.

Specification of Letters Patent.

latentedyflct. s, 1918.

Application filed February 14, 1918. Serial No. 217,052.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, RUDOLPH BECKER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Roselle Park, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in'Hat-Sweats and Methods of Attachment, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to head coverings and particularly to sweat bands for straw hats and their method of attachment.

In a companion application Serial No. 217,051, filed February 141, 1918 contemporaneously with this application, a hat having a sweat band attachedto it in a certain manner is fully described and claimed. This application is for different species of the inventions thereinclaimed broadly. As the problem and its solution were fully explained in the said contemporaneously filed application it is deemed to be sufficient to but briefly state the problem and solution in this application.

A leather sweat band is commonly stitched to straw hats at the present day by first stitching the leather to a piece of cambric to form the hat-sweat and subsequently stitching the hat and cambric only together to fasten the hat sweat in position at the junction of the brim and crown. By reason of the fact that the stitching of the hat and hat sweat together is done when the leather has been folded back over the stitches uniting its lower edge to the cambric, the stitches uniting the hat sweat to the hat body were generally located about an eighth of an inch above the lower edge of the leather sweat. These uniting stitches are concealed when the leather is afterward folded back into the hat.

The above described prevailing method was found to be objectionable because in the completed hat the lower edge of the sweat band often stoodaway from the junction of the brim and'crown leaving a gap or space presenting an unsightly appearance. It was also found that hats of a given size, seven for instance, would not fit uniformly for the reason that the operators were unable in stitching the hat sweat in place to manipulate the same soas to compensate for the invariable variations in hat bodies which had been glued and blocked and were supposed to be size seven hatin the rough.

of the prevailing practice have been pursued in the reverse order, 2'. 0., an anchor member or, strip corresponding-to the cambric of the old practice is first stitched to the hat and then the leather sweat band is stitched to-the anchoring member, carebeing taken to do this in such a manner that a soft edge or ridge of needle penetrable material is substantially fi edin position at the'junction of the brim or crown of the hat and as near the plane of the under surfaceof the finished brim as is practicable.

The object of this invention has been to improve the machine process of attaching sweat bands to straw hats having separately formed upper and-under brims and'to better the character of the product.

Over the invention disclosed inthe companion andcontemnoraneouslv filed application the product is improved by reason of the secure fixing of the anchoring member or strip carrying the soft edge or ridge of material between the brimsand at their junction with the crown portion of the hat and the process is specifically different.

In the accompanying drawings the article and successive steps in its formation are illustrated. Figure 1 shows a hat in perspective partially broken away to disclose its construction. Figs. 2 to 5 inclusive disclose successive steps or operations in the preferred method of construction. Figs. 6 to 9 inclusive disclose successive steps in a modified method of constructing the hat. Figs. 10 to 14 inclusive disclose an anchoring member having a corded soft edge or ridge. Figs. 15 and 16 show an anchoring member in which a soft edge or ridge is formed b folding a strip of suitable material. Fig. 1% illustrates on an enlarged scale the relative location of seams securing a hat sweat to a hat body. Figs. 18 and 19 show how an anchoring member may be incised or notched for convenience in folding.

The hat illustrated is of the type in which an under brim 1 is made separately from the upper brim 2 whichis made in one operation with the crown 3 as is well known to those skilled in the art.

An anchoring member or strip of suitable material penetrable by a needle is secured between the upper and under brims 1 and 2 with a soft edge or ridge substantially in positionat the junction of the brim portions and thecrown. This may be done by longitudinally folding a strip between its edges union 6 defining the desired soft edge orridge of material located at the junction of the brim and crown. The portion 4 of the strip if cut on the straight may be incised or notched as indicated radially as frequently as is desired and to any suitable depth to facilitate the angular formation of the strip. Preferably, however, the anchoring member or strip is made of bias cut fabric adapted to be distended or blocked to the desired angular formation in a variety of ways well known to those acquainted with the art.

The strip is secured to one of the brims, preferably the under brim, during its formation for example when the braid is being stitched, or if desired after the brim has been formed. The stitches securing the strip to the brim are indicated at 7 and are preferably made on a machine. Obviously, however, the strip may be attached to both the under and upper brims after they have been formed either by a row of stitches as indicated-at 7 in Fig. 8 or by gluing or pasting the portion 4 of the strip between the upper and under brims and in either of these cases before or after stitching the stitch.

brims together in a customary well known manner at their outer edges as'indicated by the seam 8, which seam 8 also serves to hold a narrow braid of straw 9 in place at the outer periphery of the brim. These operations are indicated diagrammatically in Figs. 2, 3 and 4.

It is preferred to then stitch the portion 5 of the strip to the crown as indicated by the seam shown at 10, but this is not necessary and may be omitted or may be accomplished in another way, as for instance by gluing or pasting the portion 5 of the strip flat against the crown of the hat.

The second broad essential step in the process is the. attachment of a leather sweatband 11 to the soft edge or ridge 6 of the strip by a suitable nice appearing seam 12 such as a single-thread overedge chain- This second essential step is indicatedin Fig. 5 and'is preferably performed with the leather in substantially the position it occupies in the finished hat enabling the operator'to scrutinize the appearance of the work during its progress to completion and to manipulate it with greater freedom than in the prevailing method.

In'Figs. 69, inclusive, a slightly different modification of the above described method is shown diagrammatically. It difiers therefrom in this respect, that the strip 45 is not folded until after it is secured between the brims, the portion 5, if not of bias material, being slit or notched radially to approximately the junction of the brim and crown in order to permit folding of the strip back against the crown of the hat which folding occurs preferably before the sweat-band is stitched to the soft edge or ridge of the strip. The strip 45 is also shown secured to both brims by a seam 7'. This is the preferred method of construction for with bias cut material the anchoring member may be stitched as at 7" and then readily bent into angular form.

The soft edge or ridge 6 may be increased or thickened in size and a more ornamental appearance given to the finished hat by securing a cord or braid 13 of suitable material at the edge or ridge portion 6 of the anchoring member. This may be done in a variety of ways obvious to those skilled in the art and some of the possible forms of a corded edge are shown in Figs. 10 to 14, inclusive, in each of which figures the cord 13 is shown secured in place by stitches 14 either passing directly through the cord or serving to form the strip into a casing inclosing the cord. In Fig. 17 a corded edge is disclosed in an enlarged cross-section and illustrates the relative location of the several seams which may be used to secure a sweatband to a straw hat by the method of the present invention.

In Figs. 15 and 16 still other forms of a soft edge or ridge are shown. In Fig. 15 a strip is shown folded longitudinally at 16 and in Fig. 16 a strip is shown hemmed or rolled on one edge as indicated at 17. These forms of the soft edge or ridge are substantially fixed in an accessible position at the junction of the brim and crown as in the preferred form, the major or body portion of the anchoring member however lying entirely between the brims. No portion of these two forms of a strip lies fiat against the crown of the hat.

In this'application, as in the contemporaneously filed application Serial N 0. 217,051 it is to be noticed that the nice appearing seam 12 securing the leather sweat-band 11 to the soft edge or ridge, occupies a portion or zone of the anchoring member entirely outside and independent of that occupied by the stitches 7 or '7 and 10 securing the anchoring member or strip to the body of the hat. The seam 12 may be made on the machine disclosed in said contemporaneous application. I v

The anchoring member may as before stated bemade' of bias cut fabric such as cambric or itmay be made of felt which could be giventhe desired form in a variety of ways.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. A straw hat having united upper and under brims, a strip of material anchored between the upper and under brims and'presenting a ridge at the inside periphery of the brim, and a sweat-band having its lower edge stitched to said ridge.

2. A straw hat having united upper and under brims, a strip of material anchored between the upper and under brims and presenting a corded edge at the inside periphery of the brim, and a sweat-band having its lower edge stitched to said edge.

3. In a straw hat having united upper and under brims, a strip of material having two angularly disposed portions, one of which portions is secured between the upper and under brims, and the other of which is secured to the inside of the crown of the hat, and a sweat-band stitched at its lower edge to the junction of the angularly disposed portions of the strip.

4. A straw hat having united upper and under brim portions, a strip of material hav ing a cord secured thereto intermediate its side edges and extending lengthwise thereof, the strip between one of its edges and the cord being secured between the upper and under brims and between the other of its edges and the cord being disposed adjacent the vertical walls of the hat crown, and a sweat-band secured by stitches at its lower edge to the cord of the strip.

5. A straw hat having united upper and under brims a strip of material having a thickened soft edge adjacent the inner periphery of the brims and secured between the upper and under brims, and a sweat-band having its lower edge stitched to the thickened soft edge of the strip.

6. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a strip of material between the brims with an anchoring portion accessibly arranged at the junction of the brim and crown portions, securing the brims together, and stitching a sweat-band to the accessible anchoring portion of the strip.

7. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, forming a strip with a ridge of soft material, securing the strip between the brims with the ridge of soft material accessibly arranged at the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together, and stitching a sweat-band to the accessible soft edge of the strip.

8. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a cord to a strip of material by stitches, securing the strip between the brims with the cord at the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together, and stitching a sweat-band to the corded portion of the strip.

9. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a strip of material to one of the brims with a free edge projecting beyond its inner periphery, securing the brims together, and stitching the sweat-band to the free edge of the strip.

10. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a cord by stitches to a strip throughout its length, securing the strip to one of the brims with the cord located adj acent the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together, and stitching a sweat-band to the corded portion of the strip.

11. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a strip to the under brim with an accessible portion thereof located adjacent the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together, and stitching a sweat-band to the accessible portion of the strip.

12. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in oneoperation with the crown including, securing a cord by stitches to a strip throughout its length, securing the strip to the under brims with the cord located adjacent the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together, and stitching a sweatband to the corded portion of the strip.

13. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a strip of material to one of the brims during its formation with an accessible portion of the strip located at the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together, and stitching a sweat-band to the accessible portion of the strip.

14. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a strip of material to the under brim during its formation with a portion of the strip at the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together and stitching asweat-band to the said portion of the strip.

15. The process of attaching sweat--bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a cord to a strip by stitches, securing the strip to one of the brims during its formation with the cord at the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together, and securing the sweat-band by stitches to the corded portion of the strip.

16. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a cord to a strip by stitches, securing the strip to the under brim during its formation with the cord at the junction of the brim and crown, securing the brims together, and securing the sweat-band by stitches to the corded portion of the strip.

17 The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under, brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a strip for a portion of its width between the upper and under brims during .the formation of the hat with the rest of the width of the strip disposed within the internal periphery of the brims, and subsequently stitching a sweat-band to the strip where it emerges from between the upper and under brims.

18. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hatshaving separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made inone operation with the crown including, securing a strip for a portion of its width to one of the brims during its formation with the rest of the strip disposed within the internal periphery of the brims, securing the brims together, and subsequently stitching a sweat-band to the strip where it emerges from between the upper and under brims.

19. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a strip for a portion of its width to the under brim during its formation with the rest of the strip disposed within the internal periphery of the brim, securing the upper and under brim together, and subsequently stitching, the sweat-band. to the strip where it emerges from between the upper and under brims.

20. The process of attaching sweat-bands to straw-hats having separately formed upper and under brims, the former of which is made in one operation with the crown including, securing a strip of bias fabric for a portion of its width between the upper and under brims during the formation of the hat body, subsequently positioning the rest of the width of the strip inside and against the crown of the hat, and subsequently stitching a sweat-band to the strip adjacent the junction of the brim and crown of the hat. V

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

RUDOLPH BECKER.

, Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents.

Washington, I). C. 

